— October 17, 2014 —
Nanushka is our go-to favourite for comfortable-cool clothes with a unique touch. Hailing from Hungary, the brand and its designer, Sandra Sandor, can always be counted on to churn out easy chic items that you simply can't live without. Silk dresses, printed tees, sporty tops, micro shorts and easy jackets are some of the label's signature items; each season, done in lust-worthy colours and prints. This season, Nanushka took inspiration from the Australian Outback and the Flammarion Engraving, the combination of which created a colour palette of rich earthy tones and whimsical custom prints. We caught up with Sandra and her team at the buzzing (capsule) showroom during Paris Fashion Week to get up close and personal with her Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Immediately, we fell in love with the printed silks, the sporty mesh and the label's to-die-for new accessories which have expanded beyond just 1 or 2 pieces each season to a full-fledge collection. Catch our interview with Nanushka's Sandra Sandor below to get a deeper understanding of what inspired her this season.
Nanushka designer, Sandra Sandor.
The entrance to (capsule).
What was your source of inspiration this season?
Actually, this collection had two main sources of inspiration. One was Mutant Message Down Under, it's about an Aboriginal tribe and an American woman who goes with them in the dessert for two months. What really inspired me about the book was the tribe's relationship to nature. All of our prints are designed in house and all of them are reflective of this; for example, we have koalas, the starry sky and Ayers rock, the sunset. All this and the colour story reflects that. We also have a boomerang motif in our bag and it comes back in our T-shirts. This is the main motif which I used this season. We also have granite prints, which represents their ritual with stones, because this tribe has a ritual where they always take a stone which they carry through their journey. It's like a form of Kabbalah for them, it protects them, so that was the inspiration for this print. And then my second source of inspiration was the Flammarion Engraving; that's a woodcut from the 19th Century and that is more like the spiritual aspect of the whole story. The tribe is the natural part and the Engraving is the spiritual part; I always like to work with contradictions. The wood-cut shows a man who want to break through the limits of the known world to the unknown. So for one of the prints, we took the whole picture as the inspiration, but we changed all the symbols of the elements. Our print is the same thematically, but we have changed elements of it.
A glimpse at the Nanushka set-up.
A display of Nanushka look books and leather pouches to browse through.
A colour palette inspired by the Australian outback.
There's a lot of mesh this season that we've seen on the runways and in the showrooms. What is it about mesh that you're liking right now?
Mesh is also this contradiction, because I love to bring in technical fabrics, but if you look back on my collections, I always use very sporty elements. Nanushka, in the first season, really started off as a sportswear line. That's my thing, I really like comfort and practicality. The other reason is that I really like how it brings a contradiction with 'elegant' fabrics.
So how does Nanushka do mesh differently to other labels? And how would you style your mesh?
For example, I used this 'California' pink for the mesh, and I haven't really seen mesh done in that colour. Also, to be honest, the way that you finish mesh or the way that you treat it as a fabric, it cannot be very different from each other, because you have to bind it, so there's only one way to sew it. It can't be very different in that way. So I think it's all in the styling. I tend to use less sportswear-style cuts for it, but more classical cuts instead. Like a top in a mesh. I don't really do anything too sporty, except for the mesh tank.
You can always count on Nanushka's collections to be filled with interesting textures and fabrics.
Several takes on the big mesh trend this season!
So what pieces have be selling well so far in this collection?
The story prints are quite strong. We have this fabric family called the 'sponge' that's doing really well; it's a great fabric, it's a synthetic but it feels like washed silk. We have this heavy knit family which is really fashionable as well now, it's really structured. The slash print and the nomad check are two of the strongest ones. With the prints, one of my best friends designs the prints with me, and she draws them all by hand.
And what are your personal favourite pieces this season?
The knit pieces, the turtleneck. That's my favourite.
A print inspired by the Flammarion Engraving.
And what about the accessories this season? The shoes and the bags.
We just launched our accessories line this season, because before we only had just 1 or 2 pieces. For summer, I know every brand is doing espadrilles, but I felt that, even though everyone is doing them, no one had the colours I wanted. So I think the colour story of the espadrilles really reflects the colours of the collection. And they're platform, so I thought that was quite different! And we also have the higher 'boot' style espadrille was inspired by a vintage pair that I had. The high heels are all made in Italy - the espadrilles are, of course, made in Spain - and we also have platform sandals. The bags are quite simple shapes; we have clutches and smaller bags, too. They're just easy and they match the colour story. The iridescent pieces are doing really well and the boomerang motif I wanted to continue with an easy messenger style. All the bags are made in Hungary.
Finally, what are your plans for the summer?
We're planning a trip to Tokyo! And probably also Hong Kong. It might not be summer, maybe in the spring!
A leather bag with a subtle boomerang motif, echoing the Australian outback themes of the collection.
Nanushka's take on the ever popular summer espadrilles; done with a thick platform, for extra height.
And, on the other end of the footwear spectrum, the perfect summer heels, ready for dancing the night away in style.
Platforms dominated the runways of Spring 2015 Fashion Week. Read on and we will show you a sea of shoes that caught our attention during the shows:
Chunky and comfy is a trend we definitely love. Looks like the 70's is making it's way to our daytime shoes essentials!
L-R (Roberto Cavalli, MM6 Maison Martin Margiela, Derek Lam)
A little more drama is seen below with these pretty pieces in blacks and reds.
L-R (Sacai, Marni, Sportmax)
The next set is more fun, quirky and tall:
L-R (Hunter Original, Iceberg, Prada)
Lacing it up also sems to be a platform trend. Even the re- emerging trend of gladiator sandals have been given platform heels this season. We love Alexander Mc Queen's take on this while Sacai showed a work boot inspired open-toed platform shoes.
L-R ( Rick Owens, Alexander McQueen, Sacai)
Stella McCartney was blogger Chiara Ferragni's platform of choice.
Who can resist the extra height that platforms give minus the pains of wearing high heels? Do you want to steal the look, make it more casual, and wearable with any outfit? It can be done with some Italian heritage ...Superga. Superga is the go-to brand for those seeking stylish and comfortable footwear for all occasions with a cool yet understated and chic, casual sensibility. The 2790 Flatforms are a cross between a flat plimsoll and a platform shoe featuring a chunky vulcanised rubber sole.
The white is a must-have as it goes well with any outfit. They are especially cute with dresses and shorts. Mix and match with the other styles and walk with a few extra happy inches!
— October 15, 2014 — One of the biggest benefits of attending a huge industry event such as Paris Fashion Week, is that we get to see the biggest trends of the coming season unfolding right before our eyes. It's always exciting to see what's coming up next, and even more exciting to be the first people to see (and feel) it! For Spring/Summer 2015, we've got a lot of lust-worthy trends to look forward to. So many, in fact, that we've decided to put together a little 'Trendspotting' report to make sure that you're in the know. First up is mesh. Mesh has been taken to a whole new place for SS15. It's no longer just a sporty piece with a casual touch; now, it's been upgraded to a more sophisticated, luxe place. We saw mesh used as a layering piece underneath flared cropped tops at Ellery, we saw mesh used on cocktail dresses at Balenciaga, we saw mesh appliquéd with floral details from (nude) and mesh done in feminine pink at Nanushka. No matter what your style or tastes, there's a mesh piece of your dreams out there waiting for you this coming spring.
Mesh used as a layering accent at Ellery.
Mesh dresses at Balenciaga.
A sheer mesh pullover from Richard Nicoll.
Nanushka took a sporty mesh and gave it a feminine touch, in a pink hue.
Artist Olympia Scarry wearing a mesh top at the Dior show.
(nude)'s take on the mesh trend, with luxe appliqué details layered over the mesh.
Camilla & Marc's honeycomb mesh knitwear.
— October 14, 2014 —
TELA has always been an Electric sekki favourite for girls who prefer a more understated and fuss-free approach to dress, while other elements such as luxurious fabrics and quality construction take centre stage with their style. For Spring/Summer 2015, TELA delivers all of this with undeniable sophistication and taste. We caught up with TELA's superstar couple, Andrea and Federica, at their busy booth in Tranoi Carrousel du Louvre during Paris Fashion Week to get a closer look at their collection and a deeper understanding of their inspiration this season. The starting point for the collection was actually an excursion to Northern Italy with her husband and children to visit a mineral exhibition. There, Federica was captivated by the properties of minerals and how they echoed both her approach to design and her approach to style. Find out more about how minerals inspired TELA's Spring/Summer 2015 collection in our interview with the designer herself below.
Andrea and Federica Legrenzi of TELA.
Tell me about your spring collection and what inspired you.
It was really funny, we went to an exhibition in the north of Italy, which was one of the most important mineral shows. We went just to show the children, and they kept on talking about the exhibition, "Please take us to the mineral show!" So we went in the end, the whole family was really enthusiastic about this show. It's really amazing, how nature can realise these colours, the transparency--the ideas that I approach every day with my fabrics! And the colour palette was also very inspirational. Every mineral is transparent, is pure, natural; TELA is very close to that, natural fabrics, no synthetic fibres. Also because of the rendering of the colour, there is no Pantone that you can find which is this yellow, this blue. We also played a lot, here and there, with this kind of iridescent print, which we have light blue and in gold. We have linens over-washed in silver prints and in gold; the contrast is very cool. Little touches here and there with the iridescence. In that sense, it was very inspirational to me and, also, minerals in the traditional sense are used to give energy to people. In general, there was a nice colour palette, which mixes the blue and the green, like nature and the sea, so it is this very cool, energetic combination.
How does being Italian influence your brand?
The collection is all sewn and manufactured in Italy. 90% of the fabrics are Italian. The heritage and the heart of TELA I would say is 100% Italian. This makes the difference with loads of stuff coming from Chinese market or Indian production that everybody is approaching because it's economically convenient, but doesn't give value to the quality. Sometimes, there are a few ethnic influences everywhere, like the check, the florals, which is not a typical check but is something that is a little bit ethnic. And also the necklaces. But it's only because I want the collection to be a little bit more fun. And, also, the embroidery has an Indian origin. At the beginning, I bought this blanket for my bed and I really love that kind of embroidery, which comes from a specific region in Naples. There are only, today, three villages which are still able to do this kind of embroidery, because it's doubled and it's handmade. This for me, is playful embroidery, with the zebra, it's fun; it's something that makes the collection cool in a younger way. Playful.
Tell me a little bit about the direction that TELA has taken in the past few years.
I think that, today, the most important thing is to be coherent. TELA is feminine in a minimal way, so it needs a personality to be worn. I think that the woman who is behind TELA is like this since the beginning. I was talking to a very loyal customer of ours who said, today, with social network, advertising and marketing, women don't know what they want. The TELA woman knows what she wants. She doesn't overdress to show off.
If you could describe the TELA woman in three words, who would she be?
The TELA woman is me! When I think about something, I think about something that I really want at that moment in my life. When I think about a coat, I want to wear this coat, and that's why I design and why I studied this. It's clear that TELA is feminine, but in a tough way. It doesn't focus on legs or breasts; it's a kind of polite femininity. Subtle. And so it's a different way to be sensual or feminine. If you have a good personality, you can wear this, otherwise you need to overdress. And I think this is something in your personality.