— March 24, 2015 —
TELA was all about a nostalgic nod to the 60's for the Fall/Winter 2015 season, updated with feminine silhouettes, set against a colour palette inspired by Russian artist Olitski. We caught up with the talented Federica Legrenzi, the driving force behind the label, while they were showing at the prestigious Tranoi Louvre trade show in Paris. We visited them early on a Saturday afternoon to find their booth buzzing with interested buyers. Born in 2009, TELA has developed a strong brand identity as a label that champions its wearer through its designs. What does this mean? They strive to keep their styles simple enough to let the wearer's personality shine through, while also maintaining a balance of both minimalism and femininity in their design. Federica was inspired to push that femininity a bit further this season, with a larger selection of skirts and dresses, as well as a more feminine take on their classic men's-inspired shirt. Read on to learn more about Federica's design process and inspiration this season.
"My favourite piece this season is the one I'm wearing, this jumpsuit. And the coat. This fabric is made with a special technique which takes tweed and puts a lamination on top, leaving a foil of gold fabric on it. Then there is a machine with needles that takes the white wool from the lower tweed fabric and takes it out, that's why you don't see it completely gold, but a mix of gold and the white from the tweed. It's something very new."
"These images are a collection of pictures that I like a lot. Typical, natural gestures. I like the idea of a hand, coloured; this is the same colour that I put into the collection. It's something that really expresses touch in a 'colour' way."
"There are also works by a Russian artist, Olitski. We started with these two colour groups because we loved this combination. It's like an accent, but at the same time it's very graphic. This is where we developed the print. It's what TELA looks like: simple, but very graphic. So this was the beginning of the collection."
"For the colour, we started [with Olitski]. But, through this season, we wanted some pieces that were close to the later-60's that's why I looked at Twiggy or other images from that time. And, in the lookbook, often we put a cap; which was like the beginning of Balenciaga, when it was very feminine, but strong with this accessory."
"The main texture is the stripe. They are going straight, horizontal, every kind of stripe. I think now is the time to play with lines. It's not something that is just TELA, but I think it's a seasonal mood of many designers. This is my interpretation. Dots and stripes are something that will never go out of fashion."
"The high collar is important for this collection, because normally TELA was recognised only for men's-style shirts and stiff collars; for the first time, I really wanted something more feminine to play with a masculine piece. This is the kind of shirt that I came up with for this season. It's simple, the way I cut them, but they have these feminine details that I like a lot. I wanted to play with ruching, too. It's feminine, but on a sporty cut, which is the combination I like the most."
"Trousers, in general, have been selling very well this season. But, because of the 60's, but also because I think everybody has a nice pair of trousers, the new bottom for me for this season is the skirt. But not one specifically; all the lengths. I developed all the lengths; the short mini 60's style, the pencil skirt in cashmere and wool, the huge one with the stripes, the divided skirts with the leather detail."