— March 30, 2015 —
We look forward to seeing the Nanushka collection every season. It's just one of those brands that consistently delivers easy-to-wear, well-made, cool girl clothing. The Nanushka girl is not a prim or prissy one, nor is she too fussy or high-maintenance. She's the girl that we all want to be friends with and all the guys want to date. She has a certain easy, nonchalance and confidence. Essentially, we all want to be her and raid her wardrobe! For Fall/Winter 2015, the brand's designer, Sandra Sandor, looked to a Nordic creation mythology and the 70's for inspiration. Sounds esoteric? Well, the result is nonetheless a collection of super cool pieces that we can't wait to wear. Think high necks, thick sturdy fabrics, earthy tones and an overall feeling of laid-back retro coolness. We caught up with Sandra at her team at Tranoi Louvre during Paris Fashion Week to get all the scoop on her to-die-for collection.
Tell us about the inspiration behind the collection.
For Fall/Winter '15, I looked at a Nordic creation mythology called the Edda. The main motif of the collection is the 'life tree', which is the centre of the universe, so all of our prints are based on the remembrance of trees; we have bark textures and branches. You can also see it in our jacquards. The colour story consists of a lot of earthy tones, but I love to mute them down with nudes. I used some graphic colours, as well, such as blue and orange, but I really like them styled together with nudes to soften it. Regarding the silhouettes and the cuts, they're like 70's wardrobe staples. I really love the denim, which is a thick 70's kind of denim that's not over-washed. It's heavy. We have a lot of retro fabrics, even with the jacquard knits. It's a love or hate thing, because it's quite innovative; they're not polyester as polyester was in the 70's, now the quality is much nicer, you don't even sweat in it. But I think people need time to understand the difference that it's not the same synthetic material that it was in the 70's.
Can you tell us about the print?
We always do a story print, which is the story of the collection; there's the 'life tree' and it's the whole cosmos, there are nine 'homes' on the tree in the story. There's a place called 'Asgard' which is basically heaven in the story and this is how we showed it, using a marbling technique that was digitally printed. It's all hand-done and then scanned in with an enlarged scanner and printed on silk. We did the print on the scarf, tunic and shirt.
Last season, for Spring/Summer 2015, you worked with a similar kind of creation story, but it was Australian.
Yes, in a way it's always the same, but it always has contradictions. What I mean by that is I always choose a story that has a metaphorical meaning and lots of symbols. It's usually always involving very earthly moments and earthly stories and references, but at the same time also other-earthly, transcendent and mystical. Every story I choose, it's very important for me. And also with the colour stories, I really like earthy tones, but I like to mix it, like last season we had the iridescence or in the past we've also done organza. So it all appeals to my fabric selections and the textures of the collection. It's always important for me to have a theme to work around.
Do you have favourite pieces this season?
I love the knitted tunic, the poncho cape with the detachable hood. I love the oversized wool coat with belt and the vest. One of our big features with this season's cutting is the transfer seam; there are no side seams on many of our pieces, the coats, the dresses. The story print with the landscape is also doing really well. The 70's waffle fabric I also love, it's very light.
What is it about the 70's that appeals to you?
I don't know! I just really love the colours, I love the retro-ness of it and the whole vibe. It's really warm for me, also, regarding the colours. If you look at it photographic eye, it's all of these warm, reddish, rusty shades. I love this. It's not so much the philosophy, but the hippie movement is also a little bit close to me. I love the movie Hair, for example; I watched it when I was young and it really had an impact on me. I don't think I could live my life as a hippie, but I really love their willpower and the relaxed attitude about it, the chill thing about it that you don't need to worry so much.
Which pieces have been selling well this time?
Actually, similar to the pieces that I like myself! But actually some of the more expensive real shearling pieces are selling really well, too. The long belted coat is a best-seller, as well. The poncho and the long knit cardigan are doing really well, too.