— October 17, 2014 —
Nanushka is our go-to favourite for comfortable-cool clothes with a unique touch. Hailing from Hungary, the brand and its designer, Sandra Sandor, can always be counted on to churn out easy chic items that you simply can't live without. Silk dresses, printed tees, sporty tops, micro shorts and easy jackets are some of the label's signature items; each season, done in lust-worthy colours and prints. This season, Nanushka took inspiration from the Australian Outback and the Flammarion Engraving, the combination of which created a colour palette of rich earthy tones and whimsical custom prints. We caught up with Sandra and her team at the buzzing (capsule) showroom during Paris Fashion Week to get up close and personal with her Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Immediately, we fell in love with the printed silks, the sporty mesh and the label's to-die-for new accessories which have expanded beyond just 1 or 2 pieces each season to a full-fledge collection. Catch our interview with Nanushka's Sandra Sandor below to get a deeper understanding of what inspired her this season.
Nanushka designer, Sandra Sandor.
The entrance to (capsule).
What was your source of inspiration this season?
Actually, this collection had two main sources of inspiration. One was Mutant Message Down Under, it's about an Aboriginal tribe and an American woman who goes with them in the dessert for two months. What really inspired me about the book was the tribe's relationship to nature. All of our prints are designed in house and all of them are reflective of this; for example, we have koalas, the starry sky and Ayers rock, the sunset. All this and the colour story reflects that. We also have a boomerang motif in our bag and it comes back in our T-shirts. This is the main motif which I used this season. We also have granite prints, which represents their ritual with stones, because this tribe has a ritual where they always take a stone which they carry through their journey. It's like a form of Kabbalah for them, it protects them, so that was the inspiration for this print. And then my second source of inspiration was the Flammarion Engraving; that's a woodcut from the 19th Century and that is more like the spiritual aspect of the whole story. The tribe is the natural part and the Engraving is the spiritual part; I always like to work with contradictions. The wood-cut shows a man who want to break through the limits of the known world to the unknown. So for one of the prints, we took the whole picture as the inspiration, but we changed all the symbols of the elements. Our print is the same thematically, but we have changed elements of it.
A glimpse at the Nanushka set-up.
A display of Nanushka look books and leather pouches to browse through.
A colour palette inspired by the Australian outback.
There's a lot of mesh this season that we've seen on the runways and in the showrooms. What is it about mesh that you're liking right now?
Mesh is also this contradiction, because I love to bring in technical fabrics, but if you look back on my collections, I always use very sporty elements. Nanushka, in the first season, really started off as a sportswear line. That's my thing, I really like comfort and practicality. The other reason is that I really like how it brings a contradiction with 'elegant' fabrics.
So how does Nanushka do mesh differently to other labels? And how would you style your mesh?
For example, I used this 'California' pink for the mesh, and I haven't really seen mesh done in that colour. Also, to be honest, the way that you finish mesh or the way that you treat it as a fabric, it cannot be very different from each other, because you have to bind it, so there's only one way to sew it. It can't be very different in that way. So I think it's all in the styling. I tend to use less sportswear-style cuts for it, but more classical cuts instead. Like a top in a mesh. I don't really do anything too sporty, except for the mesh tank.
You can always count on Nanushka's collections to be filled with interesting textures and fabrics.
Several takes on the big mesh trend this season!
So what pieces have be selling well so far in this collection?
The story prints are quite strong. We have this fabric family called the 'sponge' that's doing really well; it's a great fabric, it's a synthetic but it feels like washed silk. We have this heavy knit family which is really fashionable as well now, it's really structured. The slash print and the nomad check are two of the strongest ones. With the prints, one of my best friends designs the prints with me, and she draws them all by hand.
And what are your personal favourite pieces this season?
The knit pieces, the turtleneck. That's my favourite.
A print inspired by the Flammarion Engraving.
And what about the accessories this season? The shoes and the bags.
We just launched our accessories line this season, because before we only had just 1 or 2 pieces. For summer, I know every brand is doing espadrilles, but I felt that, even though everyone is doing them, no one had the colours I wanted. So I think the colour story of the espadrilles really reflects the colours of the collection. And they're platform, so I thought that was quite different! And we also have the higher 'boot' style espadrille was inspired by a vintage pair that I had. The high heels are all made in Italy - the espadrilles are, of course, made in Spain - and we also have platform sandals. The bags are quite simple shapes; we have clutches and smaller bags, too. They're just easy and they match the colour story. The iridescent pieces are doing really well and the boomerang motif I wanted to continue with an easy messenger style. All the bags are made in Hungary.
Finally, what are your plans for the summer?
We're planning a trip to Tokyo! And probably also Hong Kong. It might not be summer, maybe in the spring!
A leather bag with a subtle boomerang motif, echoing the Australian outback themes of the collection.
Nanushka's take on the ever popular summer espadrilles; done with a thick platform, for extra height.
And, on the other end of the footwear spectrum, the perfect summer heels, ready for dancing the night away in style.