— September 29, 2014 —
Matthew Cartwright / Mens Wear / Spotlight / Suits
This one is for the gents who love bespoke and made to measure suits, and for the ladies who appreciate men in the finest suits! Electricsekki was given an opportunity to interview Mr. Matthew Noden- Cartwright, the man behind Noden and Winsor: an independent British tailors specialising in creating beautifully crafted suits using the worlds finest cloths, based in Savile Row.
To this day, Savile Row is still the home of tailoring throughout the world. A mix of the old and new sit together with the same purpose: to create the finest suits in the world.
Some cool illustrations from the N&W website:
Here's our interview with the Director of Noden and Winsor:
ES: What is your fondest memory of Savile Row?
MNC: I will never forget the first time I visited Savile Row with my father. As a child I had heard tales about ‘the Row’ and how in Victorian times our family had owned a haberdashers store. I longed for the day when my father would let me join him on a visit to Savile Row. When I was fourteen we went up to London and as we turned onto ‘the Row’ I could see the iconic flags and the awnings hanging above the shop fronts. I marveled at the steady stream of well-dressed men strolling along the street.
I was fascinated and enthralled by Savile Row; a small London Street that has continued to be the epicenter of bespoke clothing for nearly two hundred years. I did not realise it at the time but my father was passing the baton down to me. It was a gentle rite of passage for which I will be forever grateful.
ES: Describe the man who wears Noden and Winsor?
MNC: At Noden & Winsor we aim to combine timeless elegance with the verve of the modern age. The men we suit at Noden & Winsor are typically the new cohort of the professional and creative world. They are from all over the world but what they all have in common is impeccable taste and a respect for the tradition of tailoring. They are looking for unsurpassed quality and craftsmanship but with a modern flair that will set them apart from their contemporaries.
ES: What part of your work do you enjoy the most?
MNC: One of the most enjoyable parts of my job is being able to work with a customer to create something unique for them. Being able to sketch an idea on paper and then turn it into a tangible product is always exciting. Tailoring is not for the faint hearted. You have to have an incredible eye for detail and always be striving for excellence. It is challenging but very rewarding when we meet or exceed our customers’ expectations. I particularly enjoy welcoming back our long-standing customers. I think our oldest is an octogenarian emeritus professor.
ES: What do you think is the future of MTM (made to measure) and bespoke clothing in Asia?
Hong Kong has long enjoyed an enviable reputation for tailoring, in part due to its historical links to Britain. There is an abundance of tailors in the Far East, however they cannot offer the same heritage or craftsmanship that a British tailor like Noden & Winsor can.
It is a very exciting time with the continued growth in the Asian economies. We are seeing several trends that bode well for the future of made-to-measure and especially bespoke tailoring. There is considerable interest in the fashions, design and style that London is famous for. Our clients are typically successful men who wish to present themselves with a little panache and enhance their presence in a way that only a tailored suit can. Some gentlemen want a very classic ‘English Gent’ look while others want a traditional cut but will then add colourful twists and flourishes.
Ironically, in this modern world of immediacy and availability our customers seem to take pleasure in the fact that they have to wait for their suit to be made. It enhances the sense of uniqueness and underlines the effort that has gone into making it just for them. I liken it to the surprise and joy one gets from opening a hand-written ‘thankyou’ letter instead of receiving a hastily typed email.
ES: Describe your personal style?
MNC: My personal style is a mixture of classic British tailoring. I really enjoy adding a twist here and there. My favourite jacket this summer was a blue pinstripe flannel with a cord peak-lapel and a contrast buttonhole - just enough to get noticed and elicit curiosity but not to show off. I have an array of suits ranging from vibrant Prince of Wales checks to plain blues and greys. At a distance they look plain but as the viewer gets closer the detailing starts to become apparent - which is why I like birds-eye and hops-sack cloth because it adds texture and interest. However, I am a firm believer in emboldening a suit with small but colorful accessories. I have a large collection of silk bow ties and scarves to accompany my suits.
Mr. Matthew Noden- Cartwright, Director of Noden and Winsor