hussein chalayan

— March 31, 2016 —

Spotlight On: Teutonic, Chalayan A/W 2016


Autumn/Winter 2016 draws inspiration from North West Europe by looking at various attributes of teutonic cultures, namely Germany.

Known ultimately for its economic success, Germany is currently a very compelling destination for Middle Eastern migrants. However, Germany is also responsible for many other facets of western culture that we overlook and take for granted.

For instance the culture of fairy tales and hence Walt Disney, The “self-make” culture (Burda Magazine and make it yourself endorsement), art movements and literature, many artists we know as American but who were educated in Germany, the techno culture, electronic music, as well as more obvious contributions such as car technology and the autobahn and how these have had an influence and played a role in our lives one way or another.

In light of all the above, the collection is a study on abstracting these teutonic attributes and merging them with clothes. These are, as always, based on precision cutting, experimentation and practicality proposing an innovative, luxurious wardrobe of a modern woman.





The Collection is divided into 8 chapters:




The experience of driving through the autobahn is translated into a luxurious jacquard where the signs of various destinations are replaced by German words taken from fairy tales. The textural jacquard weave developed from what we call the ‘Nowhere’ image is set against a backdrop of German forests, creating a sense of space combined with crafty cosiness of the jacquard, therefore blurring the lines between being indoors and outdoors.

Fairy tales.



This section is based solely on jacquard weave of words from German fairy tales which resonate with certain thoughts and actions only seen in fairy tales. Pieces made in this specially developed fabric are classic, relaxed and minimal.


Hidden Past.

The military past of Northwest Europe is touched upon by hiding military details with large pleats. Functioning pockets are still accessible through the pleats, the combination of the two leading to a new undefinable design detail in itself.




The pressure of the past events that took place in Europe is represented with weights as part accessories part talismans, subtly weighing down and punctuating shapes of dresses at the same time.



The rebuilding of a nation post-war, the reconstruction chapter puts emphasis on the skeletons of structural change. Featuring Swarovski crystal embedded chains.


Economic Success.

A section based on the economic success of the Teutonic industry, namely it’s speed and efficiency. The numbers tick up on the speedometer of a Deutsch car as it speeds through tree-lined landscapes along the autobahn.


Yourself Culture



A reference into the home craft culture of North West Europe featuring a crystal overlay and printed fabric from a dissected sewing Pattern from one of the iconic Burda Magazines.

Loss of Self.


In light of Teutonic pressures stemming from a culture of discipline, work ethic and strict conduct, ‘Loss of Self’ is about the idea of relief from these restrictions that can be experienced in the Berlin night club scene.



Chapters Landscape, Weight, Reconstruction, Economic Success, Yourself Culture and Loss of Self all feature Swarovski Crystals.