— February 17, 2016 —
Of all the diverse subjects alice McCALL finds inspiration in — her new collection entitled The New Tomorrow is a melting pot of these worlds she dives into and as a result, Spring Summer 2016 is a mix between folkloric and futuristic. Blooming with a myriad of prints, applications and embellishments, the collection plays with contrast — between silhouettes, fabrications and colour. Short hemlines are counterbalanced with weighty belled sleeves, gentle pastel florals are anchored with clouds of black lace and velvet, and Guinevere dresses and delicate silks are steadied with sharp tailoring and lean, chic silhouettes.
Prints are central, and flowers take a centre stage. Planted blooms appear across the stories within beautiful fabrications; woven, printed and re-embroidered. Florals unfurl across laces and broderie anglaise in virginal white, cut into high-waisted shorts, starry-eyed playsuits and summertime dresses. Painterly Damascus roses float across a rippling silk chiffon jumpsuit reminiscent of Liv Tyler’s much loved dress in Bertolucci’s Stealing Beauty. Within the prints, there is also balmy Oriental feeling — an ornamental magnolia print falls across an elegant silk robe dress, detailed with piped pink sleeves. The mood is romantic, soft and diaphanous.
The colour palette is soft and gentle; shades of alice blue, sugar-rose pink, vanilla and thistle lilac abound in floral jumpsuits and sweetly cut dresses, but these are carefully pulled back with a good dose of black as the backbeat. A baby doll pinafore, elegantly cropped tuxedo trousers, and an absolute stand out blazer, triple buckled at the waist shows a different side. These cleaner shapes flow through to knit wear; fine knitted dresses and A-line skirts, with lengthy slits and plunging tuxedo necklines that are so sharply cut they are dead sexy in that French Vogue insouciant chic way.
Another counterbalance to the romance is the use of denim. McCall has created two tightly curated denim stories sure to become cult; one in a deep indigo blue —wantonly and tight; cut into high-waisted jeans, a lace-up strappy bustier and a hourglass dress - just made for Brigitte Bardot. The second denim story is for the tomboy, railroad pinstripe denim worked into playsuits, an expertly cut flare jean and a pair of denim salopettes perfectly cropped at the ankle - perfect for summer trips to the coast.
As always for alice McCALL technique, fabrication andcraftsmanship are a clear emphasis and the collection shows this with decorative beaded scrolling, opulent velvetcutwork, original print work and delicate French laces. Yet a new side has emerged, a forward use of silhouettes that are simpler, sexier and leaner than ever before — making the collection’s title The New Tomorrow more than fitting.