— October 3, 2014 —
Electric sekki. takes you front row at Ellery's Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015 show. Inspired by the shapes, movement and textures created by plumes of smoke rising from volcanic ash, as well as different cloud formations, Ellery this season felt light, romantic and thoroughly modern. Ellery's signature tailored pieces were given additional texture through the styling, where her must-have blazers were knotted over, under and around the models' shoulders. Her famed voluminous looks that we all love so much were present again this season, however cut a touch closer to the body for a lighter, more summery feel. We had a quick chat to Kym Ellery in her stunning turn-of-the-century Paris showroom on Avenue Frankin D. Roosevelt near the Grand Palais to get a deeper understanding of the thought process behind her designs this season.
On what inspired Kym this season.
"This season was about disciplining some of the silhouettes that we've worked with in the past. I wanted to elongate the silhouette, make it a lot more light and just really bring it in closer to the body, but still have some of the traits that we're known for. So, a slight flare in the sleeves as opposed to a large one. A lot of tailoring and shirting and keeping the lengths super long, but the volume being carried around the ankles, as opposed to anywhere else, with the exception of the draped pieces, which were inspired by plumes of volcanic ash. I looked a different cloud formations and that was what informed the drapery in some of the really huge grand pieces."
On working with fabrics.
"I find my fabric first. I source the fabric and that really does give me a starting point. This season, especially, I found a lot of tweeds. I felt they had a summery feel to them because they're blues and rich camels, similar to what the colour of a basket would be -- it reminded me of islanders making baskets on the sand. I felt like those colours were really neutral and kept it very tonal. I think it's really exciting when you find great fabrics, because that's one of the most important things for me."
On the styling of the tailored pieces this season.
"My stylist Bridie Gilbert did that. It was great in that it deconstructed some of the more structural things and gave the consumers some advice in how to wear things two ways. I think women want that in their wardrobes. They want to be able to feel a looseness in how they wear their clothing and that's what I hope for them to have in their garments. That's what i aspire to, to give them freedom to wear things differently and not be too 'by the book' in how things are done. In our first styling day in Paris, she was working with that concept and I really loved it."
On how her background as a stylist has influenced her design work.
"It allowed me, in the early days, to identify what was, at the time, a gap in the market. It helped me understand where I wanted to position myself. I knew, in the long term, where I wanted the brand to be and to go. It very much was a hobby from the start and it snowballed from there. Styling gives you an insight to how the industry works and how everything is connected. It very much helped me in understanding my aesthetic, as well."
On what it's been like showing Ellery in Paris.
This was our second runway, but our third presence in Paris. We did a presentation in March, which was beautiful, at Kenzo House. For this season it was reakly exciting. I didn't feel as nervous, it wasn't our first time, so we felt more comfortable in the task. It's my goal to continue be here each season. I've always wanted to be here and show here. I always admired Collette Dinnigan for her efforts here and her work. It's quite surreal sometimes to think, 'Gosh! I remember being 9 and looking up to her!"