— March 4, 2013 —
Let's talk about the Chalayan show. Where do we even begin? It was breathtakingly beautiful, strikingly modern, utterly original and fantastically wearable all at the same time. Hussein Chalayan explored a number of themes this season, but the show began with his reinterpretation of denim. There wasn't a skinny jean in sight. In their place, Chalayan presented a range of innovative new denim shapes which included everything from Japanese-inspired ultra wide leg trousers with exaggerated folded hems, trouser silhouettes, skinny-yet-baggy cuts and skater skirts. It all sounds crazy, but it all looked so good. There was also a wonderful range of gorgeous outerwear at Chalayan, done mainly in classic silhouettes, with updated necklines to give them a modern edge. Then the collection glided into a fashion meets art section, with a selection of printed silks and 3D textured dresses. And, to top it all off, he even showed a range of holographic pieces; a texture that Chalayan has revisted many times in the past few seasons and one that is starting to become a house signature. An utterly brilliant collection from Chalayan, who shows us that innovative design and wearability are, indeed, not mutually exclusive.
Gorgeous black wool coats paired with Chalayan's modern take on how to wear denim.
Denim and leather has been a classic, timeless combination of the years, but leave it to Chalayan to modernize it and elevate the pairing to new heights. His baggy, ultra-wide hem cuffs add a somewhat Japanese feeling to their shape, while these draped and quilted jackets show that there are still lots of new and exciting ways to work with leather.
Chalayan's other key new way to wear denim for fall: try a trouser-silhouette. Paired with a crisp white shirt and classic black jacket, the look is instantly chic, while being utterly edgy and fresh.
Denim "skater skirts". Brilliant. The skater skirt has been a popular shape for years, due to its flared silhouette, which makes the legs look long and slender. Doing it here in this thick denim gives this traditionally flirty skirt silhouette structure and strength.
While some might think that combining lace, bias-cut asymmetry and satin all in one look could be overkill, Chalayan pulls it off here with subtlety and elegance. Somehow, he makes it work, and makes us want it oh so bad!